- Diagrams --Typical Pump Installations
- Diagrams --Typical Pump Installations
- Install a Submersible Pump Q&A
- Questions & Answers
Wires travel down from the surface to power the pump via a control box, with the water pipe itself exiting the sides of the metal well casing below the frost line before traveling horizontally into your building. Click on the illustration to the left for a detailed view of a typical submersible pump system. This is a typical installation and it allows you to see both the removal and replacement sides of the work. Whether lifting or lowering a submersible, the process involves two things: Imagine a metal plumbing elbow that slides apart in two pieces.
This is a pitless adaptor and you can see how it works to the right. The other half of the adaptor shown above it in the illustration is connected to the black polyethylene pipe that travels down near the bottom of the well, where the pump is. Notice how the top end of the pitless adaptor is threaded? This detail is key. Removing the pump and water line involves separating the sliding part of the pitless adaptor up and out of the well, and for this you need that home made tool. The bottom end of the tool threads into the hole in the top of the pitless adaptor, allowing you to pull it and the pipe and pump up and out of the well.
Pulling a failed submersible pump teaches lessons, and one of the most surprising is the reason why many pumps fail. Every time the pump stops and starts as it hangs off the end of fifty, one hundred or two hundred feet of pipe, the whole installation moves in response to the torque of the motor. Stop, start, rub, rub. After years of this action the wire insulation wears thin, exposing bare copper and creating a short circuit that prevents the pump from running. The image here shows what typical worn wires look like in a submersible pump.
Another common problem relates to motor torque, too. Over time the repeated twisting force of the motor starting up can cause the threaded pipe fittings on the top of the pump to twist tighter and tighter, wrapping the wires around the poly pipe until they break. It's important to secure the tank well. The pipe connection can rupture if the tank tips over, and because the tank is full of water, it's difficult to return to an upright position.
Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies. Skip to main content.
Mount the pump on a secure base, and bolt it down with lag screws. Tip Determine your pressure requirements before you buy the pump. Warning It's important to secure the tank well. Well Tank Installation Instructions.https://minsthrougancourdi.tk/map7.php
Diagrams --Typical Pump Installations
About the Author Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Home Guides SF Gate. Depending on which text editor you're pasting into, you might have to add the italics to the site name. Guide to Wine Country Green State: If you are unable to determine whether your pitless is male or female threads, keep a coupling of the appropriate diameter handy. Attach to the end of T-handle and attempt to thread, if male threads don't connect. Try those combinations needed. If your T-handle connects but fails to thread, stop and consult a professional.
The threads in the pitless may be damaged or fouled and an insufficient connection will lead to the loss of the pump and pipe. If you have made a successful connection, hand tighten as tight as you can, and give two more turns with a pipe wrench to complete. Pull the pump out of the well casing with a winch or a derrick. A winch or derrick has the strength to pull the submersible pump out without damaging the casing or yourself.
The method for pulling the pump that will be described here is a variant of the "double dog" method, and while not the standard method of pulling well pumps, will most likely be the easiest method for the equipment and skills available to the types of persons using this guide. If it is HDPE, pulling by hand is the primary option, since it does not have jointed sections, other than possibly a hold-down, or a short section of galvanized steel pipe below the pitless. If you have a well seal or Morrison head, undo the connection between the drop pipe and outlet line that is above ground.
On a well seal, use a wrench or ratchet to loosen the bolts on the seal. After you do this, pull the drop pipe up through the seal a foot or so, and attach a pipe dog, using the guidelines below to properly set the tightness.
- How to Replace a Well Pump (with Pictures) - wikiHow;
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- INSTALL A SUBMERSIBLE PUMP: 6 Lessons for doing it right.
- INSTALL A SUBMERSIBLE PUMP: 6 Lessons for Doing It the Right Way?
Preset the tightness of your pipe dogs using the T-handle as a guide. The pipe dog is set correctly when it takes a moderate or slightly more resistance to close it around the pipe. If your drop pipe turns out to be Sch, 80 or HDPE, you will need to adjust a bit more when the moment comes to use it. Be sure to not overtighten with these materials, as they may deform or break.
Do not under tighten, as the loss of the well pump and pipe may result.
Attach the winch or derrick line to the T-handle or around the pipe dog. Do this with a chain, in a way such that the it will not come off the T-handle or pipe dog, and the handle of the pipe dog will not be accidentally released. Unseat the pitless by tightening the winch or derrick line and using it to pull the T-handle up. Use a small sledgehammer to tap up on the bottom side of one of the T-handle handles to assist with this.
Do not pound on it forcefully. You will know the pitless has unseated by the sudden release of tension, and you will most probably hear water gush out. Guide the pitless out of the side of the well casing and straight up, stopping when the pitless is approximately 18 inches If the pitless will not unseat, stop, and consult a professional. Check that the pitless has its O-ring s , and that it they are in good shape. Replace with an exact replacement if necessary. Replacement with anything not an exact replacement may result in the pitless not being able to seat properly, or leaking. During this process have the assistant hang on to the wire, guiding it out of the casing, cutting where it is taped onto the pipe taking care not to nick the wire , and feeling for any defects or bare spots there may be on the wire.
If you have a well seal, this step is pulling up 18 inches Proceed to pull the pipe and pump by attaching the chain under the pipe dog in a way such that it cannot come off. If you are using a winch, you will only be able to pull it in small increments. If you are using a derrick, and the boom is long enough, you may be able to pull entire sections of pipe. If not, pull in smaller increments.
If your drop pipe is galvanized steel, it comes in 21 feet 6. If it is Sch. If it is HDPE, it does not come in sections. As mentioned earlier, pulling HDPE by hand is the most viable option, and should be attempted first. In " casings, rust buildup on the inside may cause the pump to hang up, or not allow a new pump to go down. If this is the case, consult a professional to work out a viable solution to the problem.
Do not force the pump and pipe to go anywhere it does not want to, as the consequences can be dire. Pull the pipe and pump up out of the casing. With a winch or short boom derrick, pull a couple 5 for the short boom derrick feet at a time, attach the other pipe dog, at the top of the well casing or slightly above, set down, undo chain, and upper pipe dog. Reattach chain to lower pipe dog, same as before. Repeat until you have reached the first coupling.
Diagrams --Typical Pump Installations
At this point attach the pipe dog below the coupling. If using a derrick with a long enough boom, this is the first point where you stop and clamp the pipe. Take the drop pipe apart. Unscrew the pipe out of the top of the coupling. Do not unscrew the coupling off of the pipe below. If the pipe is galvanized steel pipe, inspect each section for rust. Replace with new galvanized, or Sch.
Take extreme care with the pipe in the air, as you unscrew it as it is heavy, and serious injury or damage may result to persons or property hit by the pipe as it comes to the ground. Take care with Sch. Take care to not damage the threads on the pipe or couplings. Use the piece of 2" Sch. Repeat the process until you have the pipe and pump out.
Follow manufacturer's directions to attach your new pump. Run a continuity test on the wire you just pulled with the old pump, if no obvious defects were found. If there is continuity, reuse. If not, replace the wire.
Install a Submersible Pump Q&A
The wiring kit should have three butt connectors, and three shrink tubes. Slide the shrink tubes onto the pump wires before connecting the wires. Crimp well, so the wire doesn't pull out of the butt connectors, and seal by centering the shrink tubes over the connections, using the propane torch to shrink If you have a 6" or larger well, there will be a torque arrestor it looks like a rubber football with four pieces missing Make sure it is in good condition.
Not having it enough will make the torque arrestor ineffective.
Questions & Answers
Chlorinate the well with a few 10 or so chlorine pellets or a few cups of liquid bleach. When installing well pumps, debris and rust is stirred up in the casing, and bacteria can get in through the top, which can cause problems. Reverse the process used to pull the pump. Be sure to tape the wire well, and use enough pipe dope on the threads. Lower the submersible pump into the well casing with the winch or derrick line. Stop when the pitless is 18—24 inches